FAQ

A: In simplest terms, It is the process of making finger sized holes in your lawn and depositing the removed material on the surface to break down.  This allows fertilizer, water, and oxygen to get to the roots where healthy grass originates.

Q: Is core aeration effective in improving all species of turf grass?

A: Yes, both cool season (i.e. Kentucky 31 Bluegrass) and warm season grass (i.e. Bermuda Grass) can be greatly improved.

Q: How do I know if my lawn needs aeration?

A: Known clay soils (Virginia is WELL known for), heavy traffic, more than 1/2" of thatch, standing water after irrigation or rain, or lawns that brown easily in heat are all excellent candidates.  In reality, any yard, healthy or not, will benefit from annual aeration.

Q: My neighbor has a spike aerator that he pulls behind his yard tractor. Will this aerate as well as a core aerator?

A: No. In fact, the spike aerator may do more harm than good. While spiking will put holes in the turf, it actually compacts the soil rather than removing the core.  It will also glaze the side of the hole which makes penetration of air and nutrients more difficult.

Dr. Robert Carrow, University of Georgia turf expert, compared the effect of aerating with a "core" aerator versus a "spike" aerator. The hollow tines (sometimes called "spoons") of a core aerator plunge into the ground and pull up a large plug of earth. Spike aerators insert narrow, solid rods into the earth. He found that the core aerator increased deep rooting and water extraction by 25 percent. The spike aerator showed no effects on grass health.

Q: When should I aerate?

A: For cool season grasses (most grasses in Virginia are cool season grasses...Tall Fescue, Kentucky 31, Rye Grass, etc.) spring (March-May) and fall (August-November) are best.  For warm season grasses such as Bermuda, Buffalo, St. Augustine, etc., late spring and summer (May-July) is preferred.

Q: When will I see positive results in my lawn?

A: Depending on the turf conditions, your visual results may or may not be immediate from a single aeration.  Subterranean root growth and overall health and stress tolerance will however begin to improve immediately.  Even in the toughest conditions, aeration in combination with an appropriate fertilizing, irrigation ,and weed control program will show dramatic visual results in the second year after a second or third aeration.

Q: Will aeration make my grass grow faster?

A: Yes.  Healthy grass will grow faster and thicker.  If you hate to mow lush, green grass...aeration, fertilizing, and watering are counterproductive.

Q: Is aeration a one time fix that can be discontinued when my lawn has improved?

A: No.  Aeration needs to be a continual part of your lawn care plan just like fertilizing, weed and pest control, irrigation, and mowing. 

Q: How deep and how many cores are required for effective aeration?

A: Generally, cores every 4"-6" and from 2"-3" deep will give best results.  It is commonly accepted that the deeper and closer together, the better.

Q: How long will it take for the cores in my yard to disappear?

A: Depending on weather, soil conditions, watering and mowing frequency...the cores will break down and disappear in about 2 weeks.  This process will add nutrients to your lawn.  The microbes in the cores are what helps to break down thatch.  Raking up cores will reduce the effectiveness of aeration.

Q: What is thatch?

A: Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green turfgrass and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease and an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots.  Regular aeration is considered one of the best ways to control thatch.

Despite popular belief, short clippings deposited on the lawn after mowing are NOT the cause of thatch buildup. These clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly. This, of course, is assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade at a time).

Q: Can I aerate myself?

A: Aeration can be done by any homeowner with a "Do-It-Yourself" attitude.  Keep this in mind though...by the time you have spent your gas driving to the rental store, picked up a 300+ lb. piece of equipment on your trailer (heaven help you if you're trying to get this machine into the back of a pickup), lugged the same 300+ lb. piece of equipment around your lawn for an hour or so, replaced the gas in the aerator, and returned it to the rental center...You may be very well asking yourself why you didn't have us do it for you.  Expect to rent these machines for around $70+ for 4 hours.  Since our average lawn is $75-$125, this really is a "no-brainer".  

Q: How wet should my yard be for best aeration results?

A: Dry ground reduces the depth of cores and aeration effectiveness.  Wet, muddy soil allow deep aeration but at the expense of crusting the soil in the hole, reducing access to the roots and making cores left in the yard a muddy mess that does not break down as fast.  Normally, aerating 24 hours after a 1/2"rain or normal watering is best.

Q: Can aerator tines damage sprinkler heads or other items in the lawn?

A: Yes.  You must flag all items in the yard to avoid damage caused by the tines.  Pluggerz lawn aeration provides customers with marking flags.  We can also flag all of the heads for a small additional fee.

Q: When should I fertilize?

A: Fertilizing immediately after aeration will achieve the best return on your fertilizer investment, as it will more easily get to the root structure at this time.

Q: Will my lawn require more fertilization after aeration?

A: No.  The same amount of fertilizer will give quicker and more long lasting results as it will get to the roots where real health occurs.

Q: When should I apply pre-emergent for weeds?

A: Pre-emergent is best applied after aeration to reduce the chance of weed invasion in the yard while grass is spreading to the cored holes.  Do not apply pre-emergent if you intend to over-seed.

Q: Is reseeding after aeration a good practice?

A: Yes.  If your lawn has areas where the grass is thin, broadcast seeding right after aeration will improve germination.  The seeds will intermix with the deterioration of plugs and have direct access to non-compacted soil in the holes.  In this area, multiple passes with the aeration equipment will dramatically improve soil conditions leading to better over-seeding results

Q: Do I need to de-thatch (power rake) in addition to aeration?

A: Only in cases of extreme thatch is this necessary.  Power raking only removes thatch, but does not relieve compaction.  Aeration does both in one operation.

Q: I saw a pair of aeration shoes on eBay.  Do these work?

A: No.  Those aeration shoes have to be one of the silliest gimmicks on the market.  Don't waste your money.

Q: Do I have to be at home when you perform the work?

A: No.  The majority of our customers are not at home at the time work is performed.  This is a very "no-hassle" service.

Q: How soon can you perform the aeration?

A: Fill out our free estimate form here, or call us at 218-PLUG.   Don't delay.  Aeration is a high demand service and we only have a small seasonal window period to work with.  Call or submit your information today!

Have any more questions?   Email us at info@pluggerz.biz.